Started to give a shape to the legs, still at a very rough level, but you can start to see legs, calves and boots shaped in green milliput.
2011-2024 13 years of Marvel figure customs, and not only
Friday, August 31, 2012
R.O.M. progress 1
Just some progress on R.O.M.
Started to give a shape to the legs, still at a very rough level, but you can start to see legs, calves and boots shaped in green milliput.
Started to give a shape to the legs, still at a very rough level, but you can start to see legs, calves and boots shaped in green milliput.
Tuesday, August 28, 2012
Ashema, R.O.M. Black Mamba and Penance
Not exactly the new Fantastic Four this bunch of characters!!
I started working on Ashema.
To realize Ashema is a request from my friend Fè (aka called Fè Ash or simply Ash...), this char unknowun to the most so it is a pleasent choice for me...
Brief history of the char:
Ashema the Listener is the younger sister of The Dreaming Celestial. Ashema revealed herself to Franklin Richards he believed that his parents and the other heroes had died at the hands of the psionic entity Onslaught. She explained to Franklin that he subconsciously sent them to an alternate world he had created called Counter-Earth. Ashema gave Franklin a choice: One of the planets must die.
Franklin committed suicide in order to escape his fate but was instantly resurrected by Ashema.
They both of them agreed that the two planets would live, but that the heroes sent to the world Franklin had created must return home.
After the encounter with Franklin Richards she grew to love Humanity. Sacrificing her God-like powers to save them from total annihilation at the hands of her peers.
My choice falls on Ashema in her human form. She wears some white lingerie under a green raincoat. To give more thrill to the character I'm thinking to remove the raincoat. Well maybe I'll remove the lingerie also.... ghghghgh!
Here a picture of the progress (Green Milliput) and a snap of the correction to be done at thisd stage. Comments welocme.
The other one is R.O.M. in the classic armor suite, here ongoing...
Last but not least, other two requests ongoing: Black Mamba and Penance started, soon pictures of these.
I started working on Ashema.
To realize Ashema is a request from my friend Fè (aka called Fè Ash or simply Ash...), this char unknowun to the most so it is a pleasent choice for me...
Brief history of the char:
Ashema the Listener is the younger sister of The Dreaming Celestial. Ashema revealed herself to Franklin Richards he believed that his parents and the other heroes had died at the hands of the psionic entity Onslaught. She explained to Franklin that he subconsciously sent them to an alternate world he had created called Counter-Earth. Ashema gave Franklin a choice: One of the planets must die.
Franklin committed suicide in order to escape his fate but was instantly resurrected by Ashema.
They both of them agreed that the two planets would live, but that the heroes sent to the world Franklin had created must return home.
After the encounter with Franklin Richards she grew to love Humanity. Sacrificing her God-like powers to save them from total annihilation at the hands of her peers.
My choice falls on Ashema in her human form. She wears some white lingerie under a green raincoat. To give more thrill to the character I'm thinking to remove the raincoat. Well maybe I'll remove the lingerie also.... ghghghgh!
The other one is R.O.M. in the classic armor suite, here ongoing...
Last but not least, other two requests ongoing: Black Mamba and Penance started, soon pictures of these.
Monday, August 20, 2012
Thinking of it...
Still only one week before to come back to home and blog from holidays, and unfortunately to work... eheheheh!
I'm thinking about this big R.O.M. guy... will see....
stay tuned...
byezz
I'm thinking about this big R.O.M. guy... will see....
byezz
Thursday, August 2, 2012
Tutorial: molds and Resin copies 2 part
This topic is published with the intention of giving useful informations to those that want to start using rubber molds and resins for casting figurines or other objects to be customized. I will take as a sample some characters from my collection of superheroes.
Given the assumption you got a mold now, let's cast.
You need: two-components resin, 3 plastic glasses (1 for component A, 1 for B and 1 for the mix of A+B) and a plastic stick to mix A and B together.
Fill equal parts of A and B in 2 different glasses
Pour them together in the third glass and start mixing with the plastic (or wood or iron or the hell you prefer) stick for 10-12 seconds. Don't stay longer or the mixed resin will start to react and harden before you cast. 10 second of vigorous mixing is pretty enough!!
Fill your molds
Fill the mold, give time to resin to penetrate and fill more until resin appears at upper parts
Check the resin is coming from air channels also or you'll have air bubbles in the hands, nose, chin and in worst cases some arm or part missing!!
Do not move, rotate, manipolate the molds while resin is hardening, or you'll have "double lines" effects.
Just wait. Give the time to the resin to become hard:
After 5-8 minutes you could already extract the cast. the Prochima suggests to extract after 30 mins, but I'm maniac and rush... rush... rush...
take them all!!
hope this second part was useful for you, if you have any further question, just ask, I'll be glad to modify this post in order to reply as much I can to all questions.
Hope this will give you the motivation to start your "custom" hobby now and to realize yourself all the characters that unfortunately the collection has not issued.
Time for final balance:
Never forget to remove the resin hardened into the air channels before the next casting!!
Casting fins are really easy to remove from the copies as they can be cutted with a cutter or even with your fingers.
If you found this topic useful please feedback me, I would like to start also talking about different resins I experienced and modeling materials also.
byezz
Given the assumption you got a mold now, let's cast.
You need: two-components resin, 3 plastic glasses (1 for component A, 1 for B and 1 for the mix of A+B) and a plastic stick to mix A and B together.
Fill your molds
Check the resin is coming from air channels also or you'll have air bubbles in the hands, nose, chin and in worst cases some arm or part missing!!
Just wait. Give the time to the resin to become hard:
Hope this will give you the motivation to start your "custom" hobby now and to realize yourself all the characters that unfortunately the collection has not issued.
Time for final balance:
Never forget to remove the resin hardened into the air channels before the next casting!!
Casting fins are really easy to remove from the copies as they can be cutted with a cutter or even with your fingers.
If you found this topic useful please feedback me, I would like to start also talking about different resins I experienced and modeling materials also.
byezz
Wednesday, August 1, 2012
Tutorial: molds and Resin copies 1 part
This topic is published with the intention of giving useful informations to those that want to start using rubber molds and resins for casting figurines or other objects to be customized. I will take as a sample some characters from my collection of superheroes.
Today I was at the store to buy some resin to make a copy of some character.
I bought Sintafoam resin from Prochima, cost 13€. Let me see what I can do with 13€ of resin.
First of all I needed some mold for doing the copies. I use rubber GLS 50, from Prochima also, for my molds. It is expensive (about 35€ per 1/2 liter) but extremely easy to use, and with high performance in copying each single little particular from the original piece.
I already made at least 12 different molds of different characters, so I did not made it right today and used already prepared molds. By the way, in order to show you how I made molds here I'll introduce some picture.
Rubber is casted in boxes or cans obviously larger than the piece to be replicated.
Most of the people prefers 2 shells molds, that is they prepare the figure and cast the rubber at half figure. After hardening the rubber they cover the rubber and the figure with a slight layer of grease and cast the other side. The grease is used in order to avoid the permanent union of the two blocks of rubber. They use also to do some centering prick in the mold. this practise requires also the use of some dough and a double of the time compared with single shell molds. that's why I prefer single shell molds.
I use to stick with the glue 2 toothpicks at the two edge of the hands of the figure until they are beyond the base, to create in the mold vents of air from the hands to the upper outside of the mold.
This is due to prevent air bubbles remaining trapped into the mold while casting the resin inside.
If the air remains trapped it will result in missing part of the replicated figure. Typical of hands, nose and chin.
Preparation of the figure for the mold casting:
In the following picture the sticks aren't present, but it is only to show how to fix suspended the figurine into the plastic glass before the casting:
Check there is NO CONTACT between the figure and the plastic glass! Otherwise you will create a channel leading the resin to go outside from that channel when casting the copy.
Choose a safe place where the stuff cannot be moved accidentally, it will harden for at least 8-12 hours (the hottest the ambient the fastest the hardening).
Now mix the two components of you rubber (rubber itself and hardener) at least for 5 minutes. When you approach more resistence from the rubber, just cast it in the glass. After 12 hours take a cutter and gently start cutting out the figure from the rubber. Just cut ONLY the upper part (the side where you will insert the resin). The less you cut (until you aren't able to extract the figure from the hardened rubber) the best the copy will be, having less casting fins as result.
When I mold having in mind to cast from the feet (like the sample before) I cut at least from the feet to the stomach to be able to remove the figure. When viceversa I mold having in mind to cast from the head, I use to cut from the head to the shoulders. casting from head is easier to extract and give better results. But in this second case you will have to remove the figure from its base. That's why often I also cast from the feet, I' m lazy!
Try to do one line straight cut along the centerline of your figure! The less rubber you cut, the best is the copy later. And when you remove the figure from the mold don't forget to remove the toothpricks for air channels also!!
This should be the result (in the picture the sample is with crystal rubber) after extract the figure (of course with the figure inside the rubber):
easy to move out from the glass
well hardened and cut more or less at figure's centerline (vertically)
And this is the cut made with a simple cutter directly on the mold when I extracted the figure :
Ok I hope I gave at least a idea on how to do it, whenever further informations will be required I'll be pleased to add in this first part of the post. Now let's go casting.....
Today I was at the store to buy some resin to make a copy of some character.
I bought Sintafoam resin from Prochima, cost 13€. Let me see what I can do with 13€ of resin.
First of all I needed some mold for doing the copies. I use rubber GLS 50, from Prochima also, for my molds. It is expensive (about 35€ per 1/2 liter) but extremely easy to use, and with high performance in copying each single little particular from the original piece.
I already made at least 12 different molds of different characters, so I did not made it right today and used already prepared molds. By the way, in order to show you how I made molds here I'll introduce some picture.
Rubber is casted in boxes or cans obviously larger than the piece to be replicated.
Most of the people prefers 2 shells molds, that is they prepare the figure and cast the rubber at half figure. After hardening the rubber they cover the rubber and the figure with a slight layer of grease and cast the other side. The grease is used in order to avoid the permanent union of the two blocks of rubber. They use also to do some centering prick in the mold. this practise requires also the use of some dough and a double of the time compared with single shell molds. that's why I prefer single shell molds.
I use to stick with the glue 2 toothpicks at the two edge of the hands of the figure until they are beyond the base, to create in the mold vents of air from the hands to the upper outside of the mold.
This is due to prevent air bubbles remaining trapped into the mold while casting the resin inside.
If the air remains trapped it will result in missing part of the replicated figure. Typical of hands, nose and chin.
Preparation of the figure for the mold casting:
In the following picture the sticks aren't present, but it is only to show how to fix suspended the figurine into the plastic glass before the casting:
Check there is NO CONTACT between the figure and the plastic glass! Otherwise you will create a channel leading the resin to go outside from that channel when casting the copy.
Choose a safe place where the stuff cannot be moved accidentally, it will harden for at least 8-12 hours (the hottest the ambient the fastest the hardening).
Now mix the two components of you rubber (rubber itself and hardener) at least for 5 minutes. When you approach more resistence from the rubber, just cast it in the glass. After 12 hours take a cutter and gently start cutting out the figure from the rubber. Just cut ONLY the upper part (the side where you will insert the resin). The less you cut (until you aren't able to extract the figure from the hardened rubber) the best the copy will be, having less casting fins as result.
When I mold having in mind to cast from the feet (like the sample before) I cut at least from the feet to the stomach to be able to remove the figure. When viceversa I mold having in mind to cast from the head, I use to cut from the head to the shoulders. casting from head is easier to extract and give better results. But in this second case you will have to remove the figure from its base. That's why often I also cast from the feet, I' m lazy!
Try to do one line straight cut along the centerline of your figure! The less rubber you cut, the best is the copy later. And when you remove the figure from the mold don't forget to remove the toothpricks for air channels also!!
This should be the result (in the picture the sample is with crystal rubber) after extract the figure (of course with the figure inside the rubber):
Ok I hope I gave at least a idea on how to do it, whenever further informations will be required I'll be pleased to add in this first part of the post. Now let's go casting.....